Saturday, September 8, 2012

Day 46: Prenzlauer Berg

Taken directly from the Wikipedia article:
After German reunification in 1990 Prenzlauer Berg became a centre for more bohemian Berlin youth, while more recently it has experienced gentrification.

Hmm, let's see. Double-payload baby strollers? Vegan tofu curry? Three euro coffee? Yeah, I'd say that's fairly accurate.

So unlike Paris where I had complete dominion over my own bachelor pad, my time in Berlin will be divided between a few different residences. I'll spend the first week or so staying in a two bedroom hotel with Joshua Kit Clayton, the CTO of Cycling '74. After that I'm planning to couch surf for a week or two while I try to find something longer term. This, in San Francisco at least, would probably be suicide. But I have complete confidence, rooted in total ignorance, that everything will be fine.

As I alluded above, our hotel is in Prenzlauer Berg, one of the major regions of central Berlin and home to some pretty aggressive urban upscaling. You won't have to go far to be assaulted with words like vintage, bio (the European word for organic) and start-up, and you're never more than three blocks from a public park. We are staying on Oderberger Straße, between Schönhauser Allee (the main route down to Alexanderplatz and the big tourist attractions) and Mauerpark. To get a sense of Oderberger, think of a family-oriented Bedford Ave. Think hand crafted ice-cream, vintage clothes and single estate coffee. Apparently you should also think of a cafe called Glory Whole. I don't know, man, it wasn't my idea.



First disappointment of Berlin: it turns out bagels are an American invention, not a Berlin speciality. Whatever parts of the train ride I spent thinking thoughts and not drooling into a plastic chair were ruled by visions of crusty, twelve-grain bagels with slices of käse and chopped vegetables. Unfortunately it turns out this is not a thing. Prenzlauer Berg isn't totally bagel bereft, but we're dealing with the soft, bread-like, west coast bagels here. I'm still a long way from the building material-dense bread bricks of Park Slope.


Anyway, here's some pictures I took first thing in the morning.


But Prenzlauer is little more than an appetizer. A lot of exploring left to do, obviously.

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